Welcome to this Guide to Palomino
Palomino has everything. Sea and beach, jungle, rivers and mountains and many cultures that meet: In the mountains above the village live the native Kogis and Arhuacos, which you can meet occasionally in the village (you can recognize them by their white robes), in the village the Costeños (costa=coast), numerous immigrated alternatively living people (be it Colombians, other South Americans and partly Westerners). And recently tourists from all over the world.
Only a short time ago there was absolutely nothing going on in Palomino. There were neither hostels, tourist restaurants, moto-taxi drivers nor vegetarian empanadas. We first visited Palomino at the beginning of 2014. What we found were dusty streets, loud Vallenato music, a colorful crowd of young artists and travelers, many of them South Americans… And a handful of big bungalows and hostels on the beach; like the Dreamer and Finca Escondida.
About 5 years earlier there weren't even those. At that time Palomino was nothing more than one of many not worth mentioning little villages at the Troncal del Caribe on the way from Santa Marta to Riohacha and the border to Venezuela. That was 10 years ago.
Today you are bombarded with a huge selection of hostels, restaurants, bars, street food, handicraft sellers and tour offers. To make your choice a little easier, where to eat, what to do in Palomino and where to go after your visit, take a look at the following recommendations.
What to do in Palomino
Beach Life
It's worth staying a little longer than planned. At first sight, there is not much to do in Palomino. Most visitors want to relax on the beach after a long journey or trekking to Ciudad Perdida.
The long beach in Palomino is naturally suitable for this: reading a book, sipping a coco loco or a cold beer, watching people, socializing… lie on the beach and lounge in the sun.
BUT WATCH OUT! The sea can be treacherous! Strong UNDERTOWS unexpectedly pull you out into the sea. So don't go too far into it. In the past, several people have drowned!
If you feel like a little more activity, walk along the beach towards Rio Palomino (looking towards the sea, turn left, about 20-30 minutes to walk) or Rio San Salvador (turn right, about 45-60 minutes to walk). At Rio Palomino, you will find a few local seafood restaurants during the day (try Restaurante Donde Rosa) and the possibility to swim in the river, which, unlike the sea, is harmless. This is where you arrive when you come back from a tubing tour.
Rio San Salvador is nothing but nature. Also here a river meets the sea, which is beautiful for bathing, and since nothing is sold here, it is beautifully quiet here. It is best to leave early in the morning or later in the afternoon when it is not so hot anymore.
And don't forget: Be careful when swimming in the sea! Also: Walking in the sand is exhausting!
Walking Through Palomino
For a small village, Palomino is quite extensive. But I can only recommend that you take the trouble, even though it's hot. Palomino has many exciting corners where you can always discover something new.
We can divide Palomino into 2 parts, the Troncal del Caribe being the dividing line:
- From the highway to the sea
- From the highway to the mountains
From the beach, two paths are leading to the village: the main street that leads away from the Dreamer and the small path behind the Finca Escondida. In the part of the village north of the highway (towards the sea), where our Bananatree is located, lives the majority of the local population, the Costeños. Walk along the sandy streets and see how they live which is often in a very simple but imaginative way.
Don't be shy to practice your Spanish with them. When the first barrier is broken, people are very obliging and interested (which at first glance doesn't always seem to be the case).
The main axis that stretches along the whole Colombian Caribbean from Panama to Venezuela, the Troncal del Caribe is always very busy and traffic often much too fast. So be careful when you cross it!
If you continue towards the mountains, e.g. taking the 5a next to the gas station, you will find another, somewhat quieter part of Palomino, the Sierrita. Besides the locals, you will often find houses and hostels of people who have moved here over the last 10 years in search of the ideal place to live.
If you walk up this street for about half an hour, it gets more and more like a jungle and you reach beautiful bathing places at the Rio Palomino.
If you want, you can explore the hills and the jungle further until, after about an hour, you arrive at the place in the forest where people start tubing.
To experience Palomino like this is one of our favorite pastimes.
- You meet all kinds of people in the village - if you stay longer you'll, of course, get to know nice people more and more often here (pssst - spread the word - if you stay a month or longer in the Bananatree, you'll get 50% off!).
- You can go swimming in the sea and the river.
- You constantly discover new places to eat.
- And you see how people live in this special part of the world.
Tour Offers
What else can you do in Palomino? You’ve certainly heard of the popular tubing down Rio Palomino. That’s what almost everyone who comes here does. There are countless tour operators along the highway and the main road to the beach. Costs: Approx. COP 40’000.
The same goes for horse riding and hiking tours in the mountains to waterfalls that you can undertake from Palomino.
Where to eat in Palomino
Restaurants, food stalls, and local kitchens are plentyful. Most that are for tourists line the main road to the beach, the 6a. Then, of course, you will find some more on the beach and also further up on the other side of the Troncal, the highway, another few.
The best choice in terms of value for money and originality is around Turcolandia and La Frontera, 10-15 minutes from the beach. Try the vegetarian empanadas in the small shop next to the Nómada Bar opposite of La Frontera (not the beer seller in the corner, but on the other side of the Nómada).
La Frontera
La Frontera Pizzeria is one of our favorite restaurants (although we love to make our own pizza in our clay oven in Bananatree ). It’s been around for a few years and it has steadily improved its reputation of being the number one pizza spot in Palomino. And this even though in the meantime 10 more pizzerias have emerged in this small village.
The cozy atmosphere and of course the fact that you can’t be wrong with any pizza speaks for itself. Seraina’s first choice: The Blue cheese Apple Pizza!
The new location of La Frontera is in our street, between Bananatree and the main strip to the beach (Carrera 6a with Calle 2a).
Che Parcero
The Swiss-Argentine couple at Che Parcero offers delicious Argentine empanadas in this small street restaurant. Sit outside at one of the 3 wooden tables in the evening, enjoy your empanadas and watch interesting people walking up and down the sand road.
Che Parcero is on the other side of the highway, towards the starting point for the river tubing (Carrera 5a, not far behind the gas station on the right).
Turcolandia
This small stall among many others in the middle of Palomino stands out with its delicious fresh pasta and pizza dishes. Homemade sauces and a not so bad house wine complement a tasty dinner. Very recommended! (Carrera 6a, Calle 3)
Restaurante Donde Rosa
The best fish and seafood can be found at Doña Rosa on the beach nearby, where the river Palomino flows into the sea (where your tubing trip usually ends).The fish is not very cheap (like the food in general sold directly on the beach), but big and so tasty! Here you can combine bathing in fresh and saltwater with a delicious lunch and a cool beer.
Che Parcero
The Swiss-Argentine couple at Che Parcero offers delicious Argentine empanadas in this small street restaurant. Sit outside at one of the 3 wooden tables in the evening, enjoy your empanadas and watch interesting people walking up and down the sand road.
Che Parcero is on the other side of the highway, towards the starting point for the river tubing (Carrera 5a, not far behind the gas station on the right).
Turcolandia
This small stall among many others in the middle of Palomino stands out with its delicious fresh pasta and pizza dishes. Homemade sauces and a not so bad house wine complement a tasty dinner. Very recommended! (Carrera 6a, Calle 3)
Restaurante Donde Rosa
The best fish and seafood can be found at Doña Rosa on the beach nearby, where the river Palomino flows into the sea (where your tubing trip usually ends).The fish is not very cheap (like the food in general sold directly on the beach), but big and so tasty! Here you can combine bathing in fresh and saltwater with a delicious lunch and a cool beer.
After Palomino - Where to next?
Tayrona Park
Probably the most famous national park in Colombia. The Tayronas were the ancestors of the presently existing indigenous peoples of this area. For jungle hikes, swimming on fantastic beaches (caution: strong currents!). This park always sees a lot of visitors. Especially in the high season, from the end of December to the end of January and Semana Santa, we advise against visiting it.
The park also closes its doors to visitors for a month (usually in February) so that the ecosystem can recover and the indigenous communities, which have many sacred sites here, can be among themselves. More details here.
National park tickets now cost around COP 55,000. Prices may continue to rise.
Ciudad Perdida
The hike of about 5 days is not a walk in the park. It goes up through indigenous mountain villages and humid forests to the Lost City, which often lies in the fog.
Find out more here.
Cabo de la Vela
The dusty, windy, dry and very hot Guajira Peninsula is worth a visit if you want to know what it looks like at the end of the world. Read this guide.
Minca
The small but popular mountain village Minca 800m above Santa Marta has its charm. Waterfalls, coffee plantations, Workaway opportunities, hikes, diverse birdlife, and eco-cafés invite you to stay awhile.
Coming from Palomino, get off at the “La Bomba” junction before Santa Marta. Taxis and moto-taxis are waiting for you here to negotiate prices. A moto-taxi costs about COP 7000 per person and is certainly the fastest option to get to Minca (30-40 minutes ride).
Where to stay in Palomino?
Of course in our oasis, Bananatree!
But we know that our bungalow is not for everyone. If you prefer to live with other tourists during your stay in Palomino and don’t need a whole house with a big garden but want Wifi in your room and maybe a pool, then we recommend these hostels:
La Perlita
With a warm heart, Nilka and William run their little hostel which is located in the same barrio as our Bananatree. Let them know we sent you!
La Casa de la Guadua
This bamboo hotel is located close to the beach and yet in a quiet area just outside the main tourist zone. With good breakfast, great to relax.
Kanta Sana
Not far from Bananatree on the side road to the beach. Natural complex with large garden and fireplaces, bar and more.
The Dreamer
Okay, be it mention it here, too. Super popular, often booked out although expensive, directly at the sea and almost exclusively visited by westerners, it has a very social vibe around the bar. And of course a large pool.
How to get to Palomino - and away?
From Santa Marta City Center:
Buses leave regularly from 7 am to 7 pm – more or less – from the market (Calle 11 with Carrera 11)
Santa Marta – Palomino: 9,000 COP – 2 hours
Your 2nd option, if you’re at the bus terminal of Santa Marta, you can take a bus (coach) going to Riohacha. Tell the driver or his assistant that you want to get out in Palomino.
Santa Marta bus terminal – Palomino: Between 15 000 and 20 000 COP – 1,5 hours
From Palomino, in front of Leo’s market, small market buses leave to Santa Marta every 30 minutes from 7 am to 7 pm. If you want to go to the bus terminal in Santa Marta, stop a passing coach.
Riohacha is a 1,5-hour bus ride from Palomino. You’ll have to take a coach coming from Santa Marta. Riohacha is smaller than Santa Marta and convenient if you want to go shopping, need ATMS, or would like to visit Cabo de la Vela.
Flying into Santa Marta?
Take a taxi to the “Bomba” (gas station), where the buses to Palomino pass by. Tell the driver that you want to go to Palomino, then he knows. Cost: COP 30’000.
Guide to Palomino - ATM?
Once again, there is no ATM in Palomino. The next one is a 20-minute collective taxi ride away in Mingueo. Best, take enough cash with you from Santa Marta or Riohacha!
The bigger hostels and restaurants accept credit cards, but not all.
Have you watched the Making of Bananatree yet?
How Bananatree came into being... Coming soon